HISTORY OF MOODBOARDS - RESEARCH
FOUR MOOD BOARDS:
I have chosen to research into the late 1940s/1950s. This is due to the fact that I have centred my research around Dior's New Look (which happened in 1947), therefore I have chosen to research into not only this but the periods before and after this occurred in order to get an insight into how Diors New Look impacted fashion at the time. Consequently, I have chosen to create four mood boards on the following; Dior as a brand in the present-day aesthetic, the most iconic garment from Dior's New Look collection (the Bar Suit), fashion styles during WW2 (before Diors New Look), and fashion icons during the 1950s (during/after Diors New Look). This has led me to see how trends developed within this time frame.
Mood board number 1 consists predominantly of aspects of Dior that represent the brand in a contemporary, modern-day aesthetic (as appose to including some of his iconic past looks). For example I have included looks from some of his most recent shows, as well as an image of the current popular model and influencer Bella Hadid, wearing a Dior jumper. I have also included some images of other aspects of Dior as a successful brand. For example, accessories, makeup and perfumery (such as one of Dior's more recent scents; Joy).
I have also included a large image of a model wearing one of Dior's more recent looks, a t-shirt with the slogan 'we should all be feminists'. This was a good example to include as it shows Dior being up-to-date with current worldly affairs and thus showing their support for this via their collects. Maria Grazia Chiuri was the designer for this collection, and is the current artistic director at the house of Dior. She is also the first woman artistic director (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/maria-grazia-chiuri-christian-dior-artistic-director-70-anniversary-interview). This was also interesting to research into in regards to seeing how much Dior has changed as a brand throughout history, and how it has resulted in being the the brand it is today.
Diors latest collection also show their attention to current worldly affairs as it had a jungle motif reflecting sustainability issues in todays society. Both the runway and the clothes had a jungle, environmentally-positive narrative (designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri) - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/christian-dior
I have also included a large image of a model wearing one of Dior's more recent looks, a t-shirt with the slogan 'we should all be feminists'. This was a good example to include as it shows Dior being up-to-date with current worldly affairs and thus showing their support for this via their collects. Maria Grazia Chiuri was the designer for this collection, and is the current artistic director at the house of Dior. She is also the first woman artistic director (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/maria-grazia-chiuri-christian-dior-artistic-director-70-anniversary-interview). This was also interesting to research into in regards to seeing how much Dior has changed as a brand throughout history, and how it has resulted in being the the brand it is today.
Diors latest collection also show their attention to current worldly affairs as it had a jungle motif reflecting sustainability issues in todays society. Both the runway and the clothes had a jungle, environmentally-positive narrative (designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri) - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/christian-dior
MOOD BOARD 2 - THE BAR SUIT/DIORS NEW LOOK
Mood board number two focuses on Diors 'New Look' and the style of dress that this involved. I have specifically chosen to highlight and look into the 'Bar Suit', which was one of the many garments that Dior included in this collection but arguably the most iconic one.
The 'New Look' was a name given to Diors first collection by Carmel Snow, who was was editor-and-cheif of Harpers Bazaar at the time (1947). After watching the fashion show exhibiting Diors first collection, post world-war-2, she described it as "it's quite a revolution, dear Christian, your dresses have such a New Look!" (research found from this article: https://www.dw.com/en/the-new-look-how-christian-dior-revolutionized-fashion-70-years-ago/a-37491236). I have included this quote on my mood board, as I think it is a significant element about the New Look. Dresses included in Christian Diors first collection were influenced by theatre and film during the war, and the Belle Epoque (which involved similar flamboyant dresses made with lots of fabric and layers). The style of the 'New Look' dresses were aimed at sculpting the contours of a curvaceous feminine body. Therefore, the shoulders included shoulder pads and the torso was corseted in order to create an hourglass silhouette which attracted visual attention towards the waist (which appeared small). The skirts on the garments were full and flamboyant, featuring lots of layers of fabric as well as lining and often padding too. The fabrics used on the garments were chosen for solidarity, which was their main purpose in order to accentuate the womens curves. However, this collection caused incredible shock for a lot of people at the time as rationing was still an ongoing problem during this post-war period, therefore Diors designs in this collection were seen to some as extravagant and offensive.
The 'New Look' was a name given to Diors first collection by Carmel Snow, who was was editor-and-cheif of Harpers Bazaar at the time (1947). After watching the fashion show exhibiting Diors first collection, post world-war-2, she described it as "it's quite a revolution, dear Christian, your dresses have such a New Look!" (research found from this article: https://www.dw.com/en/the-new-look-how-christian-dior-revolutionized-fashion-70-years-ago/a-37491236). I have included this quote on my mood board, as I think it is a significant element about the New Look. Dresses included in Christian Diors first collection were influenced by theatre and film during the war, and the Belle Epoque (which involved similar flamboyant dresses made with lots of fabric and layers). The style of the 'New Look' dresses were aimed at sculpting the contours of a curvaceous feminine body. Therefore, the shoulders included shoulder pads and the torso was corseted in order to create an hourglass silhouette which attracted visual attention towards the waist (which appeared small). The skirts on the garments were full and flamboyant, featuring lots of layers of fabric as well as lining and often padding too. The fabrics used on the garments were chosen for solidarity, which was their main purpose in order to accentuate the womens curves. However, this collection caused incredible shock for a lot of people at the time as rationing was still an ongoing problem during this post-war period, therefore Diors designs in this collection were seen to some as extravagant and offensive.
For example the Bar Suit (which is the garment I have focused on, on this mood board), featured almost 12 metres of black pleated wool fabric on the skirt alongside almost 3 metres of percale and taffeta for the lining. The jacket of the garment included 10 panels and the circumference of the bottom of the jacket was 3 times the size of the waist. Overall the bar suit took 150 hours to create (research from https://www.dior.com/diormag/en_hk/article/12-february-1947-–-12-february-2017-the-b). The use of corsets were strongly apposed by some people including feminists, as it was said Dior was taking away womens newly gained independence by lacing them up in uncomfortable corsets again.
Moreover, this overall look was very different to previous styles at the time, which were much more boxy in shape and were made using much less fabric.
MOOD BOARD 3 - MOVEMENT/CULTURAL ISSUE (WW2 STYLES)
This mood board reflects styles of dress that occurred during world war two, and things that impacted on them. For example, during this time people had to ration their fabrics and garments (I have included an image of a rationing book on my mood board). Therefore, dresses made during this time (such as the utility dress) were made shorter than previous decades (with knee-length skirts), and were seen as having a 'masculine appearance' as they were boxy in shape, had square shoulders and narrow hips (research found from this article; https://www.uvm.edu/landscape/dating/clothing_and_hair/1940s_clothing_women.php).
Women during this time also wore work clothes as they had to take up mens jobs when they were called to fight. This included boiler suits (which I have pictured a few times on my mood board). This was interesting to research given that boiler suits are currently on trend, which people wear for fashion purposes today as appose to practicality reasons during WW2.
On this moodpboard I have also included images of fabrics which were heavily used during this time, such as denim and gingham. These fabrics were popular given that they were cheap and readily available (in regards to rationing). Following on from this, I have also included various images that relate to the 'make-do-and-mend' movement at the time, where people had to upcycle and amend their garments if they were to be broken as fabric sources were scarce due to rationing. This was interesting to research as it could be argued this movement has come back around again nowadays, in regards to people having less desire to throw away their unwanted or broken garments in order to preserve them and prevent them from going to landfill and therefore having a negative impact on the climate.
Moreover, during this time popular aesthetics of fabric also included bright and floral prints as well as darker colours such as navy and black (research found from; https://www.vintagevixen.com/pages/1940s-fashion-history).
Women during this time also wore work clothes as they had to take up mens jobs when they were called to fight. This included boiler suits (which I have pictured a few times on my mood board). This was interesting to research given that boiler suits are currently on trend, which people wear for fashion purposes today as appose to practicality reasons during WW2.
On this moodpboard I have also included images of fabrics which were heavily used during this time, such as denim and gingham. These fabrics were popular given that they were cheap and readily available (in regards to rationing). Following on from this, I have also included various images that relate to the 'make-do-and-mend' movement at the time, where people had to upcycle and amend their garments if they were to be broken as fabric sources were scarce due to rationing. This was interesting to research as it could be argued this movement has come back around again nowadays, in regards to people having less desire to throw away their unwanted or broken garments in order to preserve them and prevent them from going to landfill and therefore having a negative impact on the climate.
Moreover, during this time popular aesthetics of fabric also included bright and floral prints as well as darker colours such as navy and black (research found from; https://www.vintagevixen.com/pages/1940s-fashion-history).
MOOD BOARD 4 - HISTORICAL/CONTEMPORARY CONEXT (1950S)
Mood board 4 highlights key fashion inspirations and icons that were influential during the 1950s. I have chosen to feature a moodpboard on this decade as these were people and fashion styles that were present at the same time and after Diors New Look made its mark. This therefore shows that although Dior's New Look had a massive impact on women's fashion during this time, there were many other fashion trends going on too.
This includes; Marilyn Monroe, Elvis, James Dean, Marlon Brando, the teddy boys, Audrey Hepburn and Bridgette Bardo.
Marilyn Monroe during the 1950s was a Hollywood model and actress. She was known for her feminine curves and sex appeal, as well as being a brilliant actress and style icon. For example the white dress that she wore in the famous image of her wearing it over a grate sold for $2.8 million in 2011 (this also shows how iconic she was, with it selling 60 years later) - https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/marilyn-monroe-style-file?page=2#gallery-body-anchor
Elvis was a rock and roll star/singer during the 1950s, after he created his first single in 1953. He was also a style icon during this era, with his famous slick back hair and leather jackets.
James Dean was an actor during this period. He wore Levi's jeans and a plain white T-shirt in the film 'Rebel Without a Cause' which evidently made them very popular. He was also well known for playing a big part in creating the movement whereby young peoples style was easily distinguishable from their parents for the first time - https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2014/apr/18/james-dean-an-enduring-influence-on-modern-fashion
Marlon Brando was also a famous actor during the 1950s. He was famous for wearing and popularising a very tight fitted whiteT-shirt in the film 'Streetcar'. This was shocking for critics at the time. Thus going against typical male fashion trends prior to this and creating a more masculine physique - https://therake.com/stories/icons/style-heroes-marlon-brando/
The teddy boys were a teenage and young adult working-class subculture that formed in the 50s in south and west London. They adopted the middle-class appearance by appropriating their expensive Edwardian ted suits designed for the wealthy (consequently resulting in their name). As they didn't have much money, they used backstreet tailors or bought 2nd hand suits - https://brightonmuseums.org.uk/discover/2015/02/26/teddy-boys/
Audrey Hepburn was a hollywood actress and model during the 1950s, famously known for her performance in 'Breakfast at Tiffanys' and the iconic elegant little black dress that she wore in the film. Her style was iconic at the time as she didn't follow the full-skirted look of Diors New Look but instead dressed in clothes that she knew suited her slim figure and small boned structure - https://www.1950sglam.com/audrey-hepburn-her-life-her-style/
Bridgette Bardo was a Hollywood actress during the 50s. Her curvy figure and super-feminine sexuality during films like 'Un Acte D'Amour' led her to being dubbed a 'sex kitten' and having an influential style - https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/style-file-brigitte-bardot
Audrey Hepburn was a hollywood actress and model during the 1950s, famously known for her performance in 'Breakfast at Tiffanys' and the iconic elegant little black dress that she wore in the film. Her style was iconic at the time as she didn't follow the full-skirted look of Diors New Look but instead dressed in clothes that she knew suited her slim figure and small boned structure - https://www.1950sglam.com/audrey-hepburn-her-life-her-style/
Bridgette Bardo was a Hollywood actress during the 50s. Her curvy figure and super-feminine sexuality during films like 'Un Acte D'Amour' led her to being dubbed a 'sex kitten' and having an influential style - https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/style-file-brigitte-bardot
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